This blog is all about learning how to crochet and knit for beginners and for more advanced crocheters and knitters. This is also about oil and watercolor painting. This blog is about inspiration and creativity. Maybe some health and spiritual tips as well.
dc = double crochet * * rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet st = stitch
ss = slip stitch sp = space
ch = chain cnr = corner
Beg ch3 = 1dc picot = ch3, 1sc into the 1st ch
dc tog = double crochet together Tr = treble
The numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.
I am using Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable yarn which is a size 4 medium
I am using a 5:00mm or size H crochet hook
A pattern repeat is 10 stitches and I am doing 5 repeats so have 50ch
PATTERN
Foundation row numbers 1 and 2
1. Ch50 plus an extra 4ch (54ch all together) the extra 4 stand for 1dc and skip 1
2. 1dc into the 5th ch from the hook, Ch3, skip 1ch, 1sc in the next st
* ch5, skip 3ch, 1sc in the next ch
ch3, skip 1ch, 3dc tog in the next 3ch
ch3, skip 1, 1sc into the next ch,* rep between the stars
ending with your ch5, skip 3ch, 1sc in the next ch, ch3, skip 1ch, 2dc tog in the last 2stitches
THE NEXT 4 ROWS FORM YOUR PATTERN (THE YELLOW'S ARE THE SAME AND THE BLUE'S ARE THE SAME EXCEPT FOR THEIR BEG AND ENDINGS)
*3. ch1, 1sc in the dc, turn your work around, (ROW 1 BEGINNING) ch5, 5dc in the ch5 sp, *ch5, 1sc above the 3dc tog, ch5, 5dc in the ch5 sp* rep this to the end, (ROW 1 ENDING) ending with 5dc in the ch 5 sp, ch5, 1sc in the middle of the 2dc from previous row
4. Ch6, turn, (ROW 2 BEGINNING) 1sc in the 2nd last ch of the 1st ch sp, * ch3, 3dc tog in the middle 3dc of the 5dc, ch3, 1sc in the 2nd last ch, ch5, 1sc in the 2nd last ch,* rep (you are making 3 ch spaces in this row) (ROW 2 ENDING) ending with ch3, 1sc in the 2nd last ch (leaving 3ch below on hook to stand as a dc) ch2, 1tr in the sc of previous row. 5. Ch3, turn, (ROW 3 BEGINNING) 2dc in the same place, *ch5, 1sc above the 3dc tog, ch5, 5dc in the ch5 sp* rep this to the end (ROW 3 ENDING), ending with 1sc above the 3dc tog, ch5, 3dc in the 3rd ch from the bottom(so it makes a dc)
6. Ch3, turn, (ROW 4 BEGINNING) 1dc in the middle of the 3dc, * ch3, 1sc in the 2nd last ch, ch5, 1sc in the 2nd last ch, ch3, 3dc tog in the middle 3dc of the 5dc,*rep (you are making 3 ch spaces in this row) (ROW 4 ENDING) ending with ch5, 1sc in the 2nd last ch, ch3, 2dc tog in the last 2dc
7. MY LENGTH IS 38 inches and I finished on row 4
8. BORDER - start anywhere
We are doing 1dc, 1tr, 1dc tog in one stitch, ch3, 1picot, all the way around. Be careful not to do them too close together else you will have too many and they will start looking clumpy.
Remember that the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.
Stitches used
dc = double crochet * * rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet st = stitch
ss = slip stitch sp = space
ch = chain cnr = corner
Beg ch3 = 1dc ch sp = chain space
dc tog = double crochet together
dtr = double treble = wrap yarn around your hook 3 times
tr = treble = wrap yarn around your hook 2 times
hdc = half a double crochet
I am using Simply Soft Caron Yarn with a size 5:00mm crochet hook. For my size jacket I used 1 Skein in black, 1 in yellow, 1 in pink and 1 in blue and about 3-4 in white.
We are making 49 motifs plus an extra 2 (one each for the shoulder) and another 4 to fill in at the bottom of jacket. So we have a total of 55 motifs.
I am only making 1 size here which would be a medium to a large. If you want a larger size you can use a bigger crochet hook with thicker yarn or for a smaller size use thinner.
PATTERN
making our flower
Only the 1st flower gets done totally, all the rest are joined as you go.
1. Ch6, ss into the 1st ch to form a ring
2. Ch3 (stands as 1st dc). 19 dc in the ring = 20dc all together, ss into the top of the 3ch and change your yarn color.
3. *Ch 11, skip the 1st ch and do 1sc in the next ch (which is the 2nd ch from the hook)
1hdc in the next ch, 1dc, 1dc , 1Tr, 1Tr, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc, 1sc (1 in each of the 11ch)
ss into your next stitch (on the black portion) and go into the back loop, and 1ss into the next, back loop * repeat this all the way around. Your slip stitches are done in the back loop. To finish the round, ss into the beg stitch and change colors.
You should have 10 petals all together
4. Restart on any petal and count 4 stitches up from bottom of petal and ss into the 4th stitch, 1sc in each of the next 6 stitches, 3sc in the top st (all 3 in the same st), 1sc in each of the next 7 stitches, 1sc into the 4th st from the bottom of the opp petal
*1sc in each of the next 6 st, 3sc in the top st, 1sc down in each of the next 7 st, cross over to next petal and 1sc in the 4th st from the bottom of new petal* Repeat this for all 10 petals and end off with a ss into the 1st petals ss
JOINING YOUR MOTIFS
Looking at your chart, you can see the layout of the joining.
Start by joining a row straight down so you only join 2 petals on each motif first.
You work the white the same way as your first motif but you have to remember to join.
5. You will join two petals from the one flower onto the two petals from the other flower. In between them you have to have 3 petals. So you join 2, skip 3 and then join the other 2 leaving you with 3 petals. So in between your 2 petals you have 3 petals.
To join you will go up 7sc to the top and then you have to make 1sc in the top of the opp petal, then come back to 1st flower and do 2sc in the top, then do 1sc in the opp petal (coming from under the stitch)
PART 2
JOINING OUR MOTIFS
Look at your motif picture and join the motifs accordingly
6. Joining a motif onto 2 motifs
7. Different strategy to joining
8. Another strategy to joining - you join in a pattern of 2 2 1 all the time or 1 2 2 or 2 1 2 it is all the same thing of 2 2 1 just depends on where you start in that sequence. You also have to have 3 petals in between the 2 joined on either side.
PART 3
9. Watch the beg of Part 2 to see the layout of the motifs to form your jacket.
10. Turning fronts over and attaching motif
11. Working on Left Hand Side (when jacket is on)
12. Look on your chart to see the back middle motif petal joins. There are 2 joins here, one for each of the 2 petals.
13. Here you are adding the extra motif by the shoulder on the LHS and the RHS, watch video for the placement of these motifs.
14. RHS extra motif added by shoulder
15. Showing you how to join shoulder flower
MAKING OUR SLEEVE BORDER
16. Ch3, 1dc in each stitch, (skip the middle stitch in between your petals)
17. Over the top of the petal do 3dc in the middle stitch, 1more dc and then cross over to the next petal and do 1dc 3dc in next st and 1 more dc and, do the same for the next petal, then keep doing 1dc in each stitch to beg and ss into 3rd ch
18. Ch3, turn your work and skip 2dc and ss into the 3rd dc, turn your work, 1dc into the next st, *1dc in each dc* repeat this until you get to the petals again. (don't go over them)
19. Once you reach the petals skip 2 dc (that go up the petal) and ss into the next st, Ch3, skip 2 (up petal) and ss into the 3rd st, turn your work around and 1dc in the 1st st and 1dc in each dc until you reach the petals again,
then you skip 2 (up petal) ss into the 3rd, ch3, skip 2 (up petal) ss into the 4rd, turn your work around, 1dc in the next and each of the next dc until you reach the petals again.
20. Once again you will skip 2 (up petal) and ss into the 3rd (or into the 2nd), Turn (don't ch3 here) and do 1dc to the petals again. Do the same thing, skip 2dc up petal and ss into 2nd or 3rd one.
21. Make sure Right side of work is facing you, ch3, 1dc in next, skip 1dc, *1dc in next 2dc, skip 1dc* repeat this all the way around till you get to the ch3 and ss into the top of the ch3,
22. Ch3, 2dc in same place, ss into next st, skip 1 stitch, *3dc in next st, ss in the next, skip 1st* repeat
PART 4
23. Adding the motifs to the bottom of the jacket.
24. Crocheting in between motifs. We are only filling in the big gaps, not the small ones.
25. Start with any in between part and watch video to see where to start. There is no set pattern here. I am just going fairly free form for this.
Ch3, skip 1, 1dc in the next, you are doing this all the way around, 1dc, skip 1 but in between your petals you will make a Treble. Go all the way around and ss into beg ch3 or into the sp
26. Ch3, 1dc in each of the dc, except for in between the petals, you will skip one of those spaces and where the 2 petals meet, you will skip one of those (watch video) go all the way around and ss into beg
27. Ch1, 1sc in each of the stitches all the way around, ss into beg
28. Ch1, skip 1, 1sc *skip 1, 1sc* all the way around, ss into beg. End off
29. STARTING OUR BORDER ALL THE WAY AROUND
With the right side facing you, we are starting at the bottom of the jacket and going up towards the shoulders and neck,
30. FIRST ROW: Ch6, This stands for 1dc and ch3, Watch video for place to insert hook. You will be doing either a dc or a treble with 3ch in between. Watch video to see where to do which one
31. SHOWING THE PATTERN WITH THE DC AND TREBLE for row 1.
32. Once you have finished row 1, ss into the 1st ch sp, CH3, 1dc in the 1st ch sp, ch3, by your petals you will do 3dc tog in the next 3 ch spaces, ch3, 1dc in the next ch sp, Ch3, 3dc tog in the next 3ch sp (by the petals), ch3, 1dc, ch3, 3dc tog in the next 3ch sp, ch3, continue this pattern, where you have the 3ch sp in between the petals do them together, ch3, and then 1dc, ch3 where you don't have 3 together, all the way around.
33. 2ND ROW: 4dc in each ch space all the way around, ss into 1st st,
34. Ch3, 1dc in each of the 4dc that you made (giving you 3dc) and skipping the stitch in between the group of 4dc all the way around
35. 1dc in each of the dc all the way around.
36. Ch4, 1Tr in the next st, picot (ch3, 1sc in 1st ch), 2Tr Tog in the next 2 stitches, with a picot on top (see video at number 35, All the way around.
37. CROCHETING SOME OF THE OTHER HOLES BY THE SLEEVES TOGETHER
Remember that the numbers on the pattern correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.
I am using a size 3.75mm crochet hook (F) and Aunt Lydia's crochet thread which is a size 3 cotton.
dc = double crochet * * rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet st = stitch
ss = slip stitch sp = space
ch = chain cnr = corner
Beg ch3 = 1dc picot = ch3, 1sc into the 1st ch
dc tog = double crochet together Tr = treble
PATTERN
1. Ch4, ss into the 1st ch to form a ring.
2. Ch3 (stands for 1st dc), 15dc in the circle (16dc all together), ss into the top of the beg ch3.
3. Ch4, 1dc in the 1st dc, ch1, *1dc, ch1, in the next dc* Repeat this to the end ending with ch1 and ss into the 3rd ch. (I change colors here)
4. Ch1, 1sc in the 1st ch, *Ch3, 1sc in the ch1 (from previous round))* repeat this around, ss into the 1st ch you had made. 16 ch spaces
5. ch4, 1dc in the same st, 1sc in the ch sp, *1dc ch1 1dc in the next sc, 1sc in the ch sp* rep to end - 16 ch spaces, ss into the top of the ch3
6. ch1, 1sc in the same stitch, ch5, 1sc in the ch1 sp (in between the 2dc), *ch5, 1sc in the ch1 sp* repeat to end ending with ch5 and ss into the 1st stitch.
7. Ch4, 1dc in same sp, 1sc in the middle of the ch5, *1dc ch1 1dc in the next sc, 1sc in the mddle of the ch5* rep to end, ending with a sc and ss into the top of the ch3 with new color.
8. Ch1, 1sc in the same place, ch5, 1sc in the ch1 sp, *ch5, 1sc in the ch1 sp* rep to end, ending with ch3 1dc in the 1st st (16 ch sp)
9. Ch1, 1sc in the same sp, ch5, 1sc in the middle of the ch5, *ch5, 1sc in the middle of the ch5* rep to end ending with ch3 and 1 Tr into the 1st st
10. Ch1, 1sc in the same sp, *9Tr in the ch sp, ch1, 1sc in the middle ch of the next ch sp, ch1* rep to end, ending with ch1, and ss into beg stitch (8 clusters)
11. Ch3, 1 dc in each of the next 2, ch2, skip 1, 1sc in the next, ch2, skip 1, 1dc in each of the next 3dc, ch2,
*1dc in each of the next 3
ch2, skip 1, 1sc in the next, ch2, skip 1
1dc in each of the next 3, ch2* rep to end, ending with ch2 and ss into the beg ch3,
12. Same as row 11, (making your sc in the sc from previous round)
13. Ch3, 1dc in each of the next 3dc, ch2, 1sc in the ch sp, ch4, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch2, 1dc in each of the next 3dc, ch2,
*1dc in each of the next 3dc,
ch2, 1sc in the ch sp,
ch4, 1sc in the next ch sp,
ch2, 1dc in each of the next 3dc, ch2,* rep to end, ss into top of beg ch3,
14. ch3, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch2, 1sc in the middle ch sp, ch2, 1dc in each of the next 3dc, ch2
*1dc in each of the next 3dc,
ch2, 1sc in the middle ch sp,
ch2, 1dc in each of the next 3dc, ch2* to the end, ss into the top of the ch3
15. Ch3, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch2, 1sc in the sc, ch2, 1dc in each of the next 3dc, ch2
*1dc in each of the next 3dc,
ch2, 1sc in the sc,
ch2, 1dc in each of the next 3 dc, ch2* rep to end, ss into the ch3
16. Ch3, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, 1dc in each of the next 3dc, ch4,
*1dc in each of the next 3dc, 1dc in each of the next 3dc, ch4,* rep to end ss into the ch3
17. Ch3, 2dc tog in the next 2dc, 2dc tog in the next 2dc, 1dc in the next dc, ch5, 1sc in the middle of the ch4 of prev round, ch5,
*1dc, 2dc tog in the next 2dc,
2dc tog in the next 2dc,
ch5, 1sc in the middle of the ch4,
ch5* rep to end, ss into the ch3 (16ch sp)
18. Ch3, 2dc tog in the next 2dc, ch4, 1sc in the ch sp, ch4, 1sc in the ch sp, ch4
*3dc tog in the next 3dc,
ch4, 1sc in the ch sp,
ch4, 1sc in the ch sp,
ch4, * to the end, ss into the 3ch (24 ch sp) change color
19. ss into the 1st ch sp,
ch4, 1sc in the ch of the ch sp, *ch3, 1sc in the ch of the ch sp* rep to end ending with ch3 and ss into the 1st st (24 ch sp)
20. Ch1, 1sc in the same place, ch5, 1sc in the sc, *ch5, 1sc in the sc* rep to end, ending with ch5, ss into 1st stitch (24 ch p)
21. Ch4, 1dc in the same place, 1sc in the middle of the ch of the ch sp, 1dc 1ch 1dc in the sc,
*1sc in the middle of the ch of the ch sp, 1dc ch1 1dc in the sc* rep to the end ending with your sc and then ss into the top of the ch3.
22. ch1, 1sc in the same sp, ch5, 1sc in the ch1 sp, *ch5, 1sc in the ch1 sp* rep to end ss into 1st st,
23. Ch4, 1dc in the same sp, 1sc in the middle of the ch of the ch sp,
*1dc ch1, 1dc in the sc, 1sc in the middle of the ch of the ch sp* rep to end ss into the ch3
24. Ch1, reverse sc back
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Remember that the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.
I am using Caron Simply Soft Party Yarn which is a size 4 medium, and a size 6.5mm/K crochet hook.
dc = double crochet * * rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet st = stitch
ss = slip stitch sp = space
ch = chain cnr = corner
Beg ch3 = 1dc ch sp = chain space
dc tog = double crochet together
picot = 3ch, 1sc in the first ch
A. Ch 43, plus an extra 3
1. 1dc in the 4th ch from the hook (the 1st 3ch stand for your 1st dc here and in the next rows),
ch4, 1dc into the 4th ch (so skip 3ch),
ch2, skip 2, 2dc into the 3rd ch
ch2, skip 2, 1dc in each of the next 6ch (= 6dc)
ch2, skip 2, 2dc tog in the next 2 ch
ch1, skip 3, 2dc tog in the next 2ch
ch2, skip 2, 1dc in each of the next 6ch (= 6dc)
ch2, skip 2, 2dc into the next ch
ch2, skip 2, 1dc in the next ch
ch4, skip 3, 1dc in each of the next 2ch
2. ch3, turn, 1dc in the 2nd dc,
ch6, 1dc in the next dc,
ch2, 4dc in between the next 2dc,
ch2, 2dc tog in the next 2dc, 2dc in the next dc, 2dc tog in the next 2dc
ch2, 2dc tog in the next 2dc (the centre 2 clusters)
ch2, 2dc tog in the next 2dc, 2dc in the next dc, 2dc tog in the next 2dc
ch2, 4dc in between the next 2dc,
ch2, 1dc in the next dc
ch6, 1dc in the next 2dc,
3. Ch3, turn around, 1dc in the next dc,
Ch6, 1dc in the next dc,
ch2, 6dc in the next 4dc
ch2, 2dc tog in the next 2, 2dc tog in the next 2 (so 2dc tog and 2dc tog in the next cluster)
ch2, 1dc in the centre
ch2, 2dc tog in the next 2, 2dc tog in the next 2 (so 2dc tog and 2dc tog in the next cluster)
ch2, 6dc in the next 4dc
ch2, 1dc in the dc
ch6, 1dc in each of the last 2 dc
THE NEXT 3 ROWS (ROW 4,5,6) ARE REPEATED OVER AND OVER
4. Ch3, turn, 1dc in the next dc
Ch4, skip 4 ch, 1dc into the 2nd last ch,
ch2, 2dc in the next dc,
ch2, 1dc in each of the next 6dc,
ch2, 2dc tog in the next 2 (those next 2 had been done tog) , ch1, 2dc tog in the next 2(these 2 were also done together) and (these are the for the middle)
ch2, 1dc in each of the next 6dc,
ch2, 2dc in the next dc,
ch2, skip 2 ch, 1dc in the next ch,
Ch4, 1dc in each of the next 2dc
5. ch3, turn, 1dc in the 2nd dc
ch6, 1dc in the dc,
ch2, 4dc in between the next 2dc,
ch2, 2dc tog in the next 2dc, 2dc in the next dc, 2dc tog in the next 2dc
ch2, 2dc tog in the next 2dc (the centre 2 clusters)
ch2, 2dc tog in the next 2dc, 2dc in the next dc, 2dc tog in the next 2dc
ch2, 4dc in between the next 2dc,
Ch2, 1dc in the next dc
ch6, 1dc in the next 2dc,
6. Ch3, turn, 1dc in the next dc,
Ch6, 1dc in the next dc,
ch2, 6dc in the next 4dc
ch2, 2dc tog in the next 2, 2dc tog in the next 2 (so 2dc tog and 2dc tog in the next cluster)
ch2, 1dc in the centre
ch2, 2dc tog in the next 2, 2dc tog in the next 2 (so 2dc tog and 2dc tog in the next cluster)
ch2, 6dc in the next 4dc
ch2, 1dc in the dc
ch6, 1dc in each of the last 2 dc
WHEN YOUR SCARF IS THE LENGTH YOU WANT CONTINUE WITH THIS BORDER
7. start anywhere (either of the sides) with a 2sc, 1 picot, 2sc
you are making 2sc in the side of each dc you had made for the scarf with a picot in between 2sc
I am using a size 5:00mm crochet hook, I used Red Heart Boutique, Unforgettable. I also made it in Bernat Softee Baby which is a size 3 light and I used a size 5:00mm crochet hook. Both yarns work out fine.
REMEMBER that the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.
dc = double crochet * * rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet st = stitch
ss = slip stitch sp = space
ch = chain cnr = corner
Beg ch3 = 1dc picot = ch3, 1sc into the 1st ch
dc tog = double crochet together
1. Ch5, ss into the 1st ch,
2. Ch3 (stands as 1st dc, here and at beg of rounds), 4dc in the ring, ch5, 5dc in the ring, ch5, ss into the beg ch3, ss into the 2nd dc
3. Ch3, 2dc tog in the same sp, ch3,
1sc into the 2nd ch, ch6,
skip 1 ch and 1sc into the next ch, ch3,
3dc tog in the middle of the 5dc, ch3,
1sc in the 1st ch, ch6, 1sc in the 2nd last ch, ss into the middle of the 3dc tog
4. ch5, 5dc in the 1st ch sp,
ch5, 1sc in the sc,
ch5, 5dc in the next ch sp, ch5
* 5dc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the sc (or it might be the 3dc tog then sc in the middle of that), ch5* repeat this around ending with your sc and ch5 and ss into the 3rd ch of the beg ch5, ss across into the middle of the 5dc
5. ch3, 2dc in the same space, ch3,
1sc in the ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch3,
*3dc tog all in the centre stitch of the 5dc, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch3 * all the way around (be sure to have 3ch spaces in between the 3dc tog) ending with ch3 (you have 3 ch spaces now) and then ss into the top of the 3dc tog
You work around until you get to the beginning of first round (so if you started with 3dc tog you would work your 5dc until you reach that first one again)
6. Ch5, 5dc in the sc, ch5,
1sc in the ch sp, ch5, 5dc in the sc, ch5, 1sc in the middle of the 3dc tog, ch5,
5dc in the sc, ch5, 1sc in the ch sp, ch5, 5dc in the sc, ch5,
* 1sc in the middle of the 3dc tog, ch5, 5dc in the sc, ch5, 1sc in the ch sp, ch5 5dc in the sc, ch5* repeat between the stars, ending with 1ss in the 1st ch You must have 10 (5dc) and 2 ch spaces in between each of the 5dc
7. Ch3, 3dc tog in the middle 3dc of the 5dc,
ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, *3dc tog in the middle 3dc of the 5dc,
ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3* Repeat between the stars all the way around ending with the ch3 and ss into the top of the very 1st 3dc tog that you made.
You should have 3 ch sp between each 3dc tog and at the end
8. Ch3, 5dc in the middle ch sp, ch3, 1sc above the 3dc tog,
ch3, 5dc in the middle ch sp, ch3,* 1sc above the 3dc tog, ch3, 5dc in the middle ch sp, ch3* rep all the way around ending with a sc above the sc (2 ch sp in between the 5dc) go around till the 1st 5dc you had made
9. ch3, 3dc tog in the middle 3dc of the 5dc,
ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, *3dc tog in the middle 3dc of the 5dc, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3* rep between the stars all the way around ending with the ch3 and ss into the top of the very 1st 3dc tog that you made.
10. Ch3, 5dc in the middle ch sp, ch3, 1sc above the 3dc tog,
ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, *3dc tog in the middle 3dc of the 5dc, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3* rep between the stars all the way,
ss into the sc of the of previous round
11. ch3, 3dc tog in the middle 3dc of the 5dc,
ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, *3dc tog in the middle 3dc of the 5dc, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3* rep between the stars all the way around ending with the ch3 and ss into the top of the very 1st 3dc tog that you made.
You will repeat rows 12 and 13 (the beg and ending is important)
12. Ch3, 5dc in the middle ch sp, ch3, 1sc above the 3dc tog,
ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, *3dc tog in the middle 3dc of the 5dc, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3* rep between the stars all the way,
ss into the sc of the of previous round
13. ch3, 3dc tog in the middle 3dc of the 5dc,
ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, *3dc tog in the middle 3dc of the 5dc, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3* rep between the stars all the way around ending with the ch3 and ss into the top of the very 1st 3dc tog that you made.
Repeat rows 12 and 13 Until your hat is the length that you want
I finished with row 13 (after repeating row 12 and 13) and started my border
The numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on this written pattern.
I am using Red Heart Crochet Thread for this project and a size 4.25mm crochet hook.
dc = double crochet * * rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet st = stitch
ss = slip stitch sp = space
ch = chain cnr = corner
Beg ch3 = 1dc picot = ch3, 1sc into the 1st ch
dc tog = double crochet together
1. Ch 8, ss into the 1st ch
2. Ch3 (standing as 1st dc), 23dc in the ring, ss into top of ch = 24 dc in the ring
3. Ch4, (standing as 1st dc, and ch1) 1dc in the same st, ch1,* 1dc in the next dc, ch1* rep all the way around = 24dc, finishing with a ch1 and ss into the 1st dc
4. Ch5, (stands as 1dc, ch2), *1dc into the dc, ch2* rep all the way around, ss into the 3rd ch = 24dc.
5. ch1,* 1sc in each of the next 2 ch and 1sc in the dc* rep all the way around, ss into the beg ch1. If this is too hard, do 3sc in each ch sp.
6. Ch3, 1dc in the sc which is above the 1st dc, ch2, 1dc in the very beginning ch3 (making your dc backwards), ch4, skip the sc which is just above the 1st dc and make 1dc in the sc just above the next dc , ch2, 1dc into the sc of the sc above the dc you had skipped, ch4,
* skip the sc which is just above the 1st dc and make 1dc in the sc just above the next dc , ch2, 1dc into the sc of the sc above the dc you had skipped, ch4,* Repeat all the way around ending with ch4 and sc into the ch 2 sp.
7. (Changed color), 1 picot, 1sc in the 1st 2ch sp, 4sc in the next ch sp,
all of the following is done in the next ch sp, 1sc, 1ch, 1picot, 1ch, 1dc, 1 picot, 1dc, 1picot, ch1, 1 picot, ch1, 1sc (the 2 ch sp between the 2dc), 4sc in the next ch sp,
*1sc, 1 picot, 1sc in the next ch sp, 4sc in the next ch sp, all of the following is done in the next ch sp, 1sc, 1ch, 1picot, 1ch, 1dc, 1 picot, 1dc, 1picot, ch1, 1 picot, ch1, 1sc (the 2 ch sp between the 2dc), 4sc in the next ch sp, * rep this around, ss into 1st st
Remember the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on this written pattern.
I am using Bernat Handicrafter Crochet Thread which is a size 5 thread and I am using a size 1.80mm crochet hook.
dc = double crochet * * rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet st = stitch
ss = slip stitch sp = space
ch = chain cnr = corner
Beg ch3 = 1dc Tr = treble
dc tog = double crochet together Picot = ch3, 1sc in the 1st ch
PATTERN
1. Ch10, ss into the 1st ch,
2. Ch3 (stands as 1st dc), 13dc in the ring = 14dc - make your last dc in the actual chain (watch video)
3. Ch4, turn your work around, skip 1st st, 1dc in the next st, *1ch, 1dc in the next st* repeat in the stars ending with 14dc,
4. Ch 5, turn your work around, 1dc in the 1st dc,* ch2, 1dc in the next dc*, to end, ending with 14dc,
5. Ch3, turn your work, 3dc in the ch sp,* ch2, skip the next ch sp, 4dc in the next ch sp* to the end (ending with 7 of the 4dc groups and ending with your 4dc in the last ch sp)
6. ch6, turn work around, 4dc in the ch sp, *3ch, 4dc in the ch sp* repeat to the end ending with 3ch and 1dc into the last dc of previous round.
7. ch1, turn your work around, 4sc in the ch sp and 1sc in the first st, *ch3, 1dc in the next dc, 1 picot (ch3, 1sc in the 1st ch), 1dc in the next dc, ch3, 1sc in the last dc, 3sc in the ch sp, 1sc in the 1st dc* to the end, ending with your 5sc
8. 8ch, turn your work around, 1Tr into the same sp, turn your work around, ch3, 13dc in the ch space (= 14dc) 1sc in the dc (below) ch1, 1sc in the bottom of the dc,
9. ch1, turn your work around, 1dc in the 1st dc, *ch1, 1dc in the next dc* rep to end (14dc)
10. ch5, turn your work around, 1dc in the 1st dc, *ch2, 1dc in the next dc* repeat to end
11. ch1, 1sc into the side, ch1, 1sc into the side, turn your work around, 3dc in the ch sp, *ch2, skip one ch sp and 4dc in the next ch sp* to end ( = 7, 4dc clusters)
12. ch6, turn your work around, 4dc in the 1st ch, sp, *ch3, 4dc in the next ch sp* rep to the end, (this gives you, x6 dc sets) ending with ch3, 1dc in the last stitch, sc into the "circle" (to attach your work)
13. ch1, turn your work around, 4sc in the ch sp and 1sc in the first st, *ch3, 1dc in the next dc, 1 picot (ch3, 1sc in the 1st ch), 1dc in the next dc, ch3, 1sc in the last dc, 3sc in the ch sp, 1sc in the 1st dc* to the end, ending with your 5sc
MAKING YOUR SECOND TOE AND LITTLE TOE HOLDERS
14. Turn your work and ss across the 5sc and then ch 10, stretch over the picot and ch3 and sc into the middle of the 5sc you had made, end off
15. Start a new slip knot, skip over the next picot and ch3, sc into the top of the next picot, 10-12chain, sc into the middle of the 5sc and end off
MAKING THE ANKLET PART
16. Ch7, 2dc in the 1st ch, ch3, 2dc in the same place, ch5, turn your work around, *2dc in the ch sp, ch3, 2dc in the same place, ch5 turn your work around* repeat this till you have 3 ch5's on either side before you join (if you need yours longer then make 4 or 5 ch5's)
You are attaching your anklet part to the opposite part of where your toes are. On the fourth ch5, you start attaching onto the 1st picot (you are attaching to the 3 picots)
so ch3, sc into the picot you had made, ch3, (turn) and finish the row, turn and finish the next row and attach the same way onto the next picot, finish the next row, finish the next row, attach again, and then complete your anklet so that both sides are equal.
17. When you have the same 2 sides, finish with 2dc in the ch sp (only one set) and then make a chain of about 40 or however many you need (this will be tied around our ankle) end off
Take the other side of anklet and join yarn in the middle and ch 40 and end off
Remember that the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on this written pattern.
I am using Bernat Handicrafter cotton which is a size 5 cotton thread and I am using a size 1.80 mm crochet hook.
dc = double crochet * * rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet st = stitch
ss = slip stitch sp = space
ch = chain cnr = corner
Beg ch3 = 1dc
dc tog = double crochet together
Tr Tog = Treble Tog
Tr = treble
PART 1
1. Ch6, ss into the 1st ch
2. Ch1, 11sc in the ring, ss into the ch1 = 12sc
3. Ch4, 2Tr Tog in the same place, ch5, *3Tr Tog in the next st, ch5* rep to the end ending with ch3 (not ch5) and 1dc into the top of the treble cluster = 12 Tr clusters.
4. Ch5, 1dc in the ch 5 sp, Ch5, 1dc in the same sp,
Ch5, 1sc in the next sp, ch5, 1sc in the next sp,
Ch5, 1dc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1dc in the same sp,
Ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the next sp,
ch 3, 3Tr in the next ch sp, ch5, 3Tr in the same sp,
ch3, 1sc in the next ch sp,
ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
ch5, 1dc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1dc in the same sp
ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
ch3, 1dc in the last ch sp
5. Ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
Ch5, 1dc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1dc in the same sp,
Ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
Ch5, 1dc in the next ch sp, ch5 1dc in the same sp,
ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
ch4, 3tr in the next ch sp, ch5, 3tr in the same ch sp, ch4, 1sc in the next ch sp,
ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
Ch5, 1dc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1dc in the same sp
ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
ch3, 1dc in the last ch sp
6. ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp (x7)
ch5, 1dc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1dc in the same dc,
ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, (x4)
ch3, 5tr in the next ch sp, ch8, 5tr in the same place
ch3, 1sc in the next ch sp,
ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
ch5, 1dc in the next ch sp, ch5, 1dc in the next ch sp,
ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
ch5, 1sc in the next ch sp,
7. 3sc in the next ch sp, ch3, 3sc in the same ch sp, (x13)
5sc in the next ch sp, ch3, 1dc in each of the next 4tr, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch10, 1sc in the same sp, ch3, 1dc in each of the next 4tr, ch3, 5sc in the next ch sp,
3sc in the next ch sp, ch3, 3sc in the same ch sp, (x7) ss into beg st
8. THIS IS FOR THE RIGHT HAND GLOVE
Ch10 -15 (check for your size and comfort) skip one ch3 and 1sc into the next ch3,
ch10-15, skip one ch3 and 1sc into the next ch3,
Ch 10-15, skip one ch3 and 1sc into the next ch3, turn your work around
about 7sc in the ch sp, ch3, 7sc (do this in each of the finger holes, if you need less sc do less)
Ch10-15, skip 2 of the ch3, and sc into the 3rd one, turn your work and 7sc, ch3, 7sc or however many sc you need and finish your work.
Now you will make another one of these for your left hand and when you get to this same place you will follow from here
9. THIS IS FOR THE LEFT HAND GLOVE
Ch10 -15 (check for your size and comfort) skip one ch3 and 1sc into the next ch3,
ch10-15, skip one ch3 and 1sc into the next ch3,
Ch 10-15, skip one ch3 and 1sc into the next ch3,
Ch10-15, skip 2 of the ch3, and sc into the 3rd one,
turn your work and 7sc, ch3, 7sc or however many sc you need and finish your work
PART 2
10. Left Hand Glove Thumbhole - skip 1 ch3 and sc into the next ch3, about 20ch, 1sc into the next ch3 finish off.
Do the same thing as no 10 for your right hand
11. MAKING THE BRACELET
ch7, 2dc ch3 2dc in the very first ch,
*ch5 turn your work around, 2dc ch3 2dc in the ch3 sp* repeat this until you have about half the size of your wrist and then you will be joining it onto the hand part
when you join it you will do ch3, sc into the hand part ch3, turn your work and work back on bracelet part until you join again and repeat this. We join in 3 joins and join 4 times (twice in centre join)
Finish off your bracelet with ch2 instead of the ch5 and sc in into the ch5 of prev round, and sew on a small button.
Remember the numbers on the pattern correspond to the numbers on the video.
I am using Red Heart No 10 crochet thread, doubled and a size 3.75mm crochet hook which is a size F
dc = double crochet * * rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet st = stitch
ss = slip stitch sp = space
ch = chain cnr = corner
Beg ch3 = 1dc
dc tog = double crochet together
1. Make a slip knot with 2 yarns (we are doubling our yarn), Ch4, SS into the 1st ch forming a ring
2. Ch3 (1st dc), 11 more dc in the ring (12dc all together), ss into the 3rd ch of the beg ch3
3. Ch7 (1st 3ch = 1dc), skip 1 stitch, 1dc into the next st, ch4,* skip 1 stitch, 1dc in the next stitch, ch4* repeat this around. You should have 6 ch spaces.
4. ss into the next sp, ch3, 4dc in the same space, ch1,* 5dc in the next ch sp, ch1* all the way around, ss into the 3rd of the beg ch3.
5. Ch3, 1dc in each of the next 4 dc = 5dc, ch3, *1dc in each of the next 5dc, ch3* repeat all the way around, ss into the 3rd ch of the beg ch3
6. Ch3, 1dc in each of the next 4dc, ch5, *1dc in each of the next 5dc, ch5* repeat all the way around, ss into the 3rd ch of the beg ch3
7. Ch3, 1dc in next st, 1dc in the next st, 2dc tog over the last 2 stitches, ch9, *2dc tog in the next 2 stitches, 1dc in the next st, 2dc tog in the next 2 stitches, ch 9* rep this around, ss into the ch3
8. Ch3, 2dc tog in the next 2 stitches, 13ch, *3dc tog in the next 3 stitches, 13 ch* repeat all the way around, ss into the top of the 3dc tog.
9. I am changing colors here, ss into the ch sp, *14 dc in the next 13 ch* repeat to the end, ss into the 1st st
10. Ch3, 3dc tog over the next 3dc, 1dc in each of the next 6dc, 4dc tog over the next 4 dc, Ch4, *4dc tog in the next 4dc, 1dc in each of the next 6dc, 4dc tog in the next 4dc, ch4* repeat to the end, ss in the top of the 1st dc tog group.
11. ch3, 2dc tog in the next 2dc, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, 3dc tog in the next 3dc, ch6, *3dc tog in the next 3dc, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, 3dc tog in the next 3dc, Ch6* repeat to the end, ss into the 1st dc tog group.
12. Ch3, 1dc, ch2dc tog in the next 2 stitches, ch 5, 1sc into the middle ch of the ch6 you had made, ch 5, * 2dc tog in the next 2st, 2dc tog in the next 2 stitches, ch5, 1sc in the middle ch of the ch 6, ch 5 * repeat around, ss into 1st 2dc tog group
13. Ch3, 2dc tog all in the same place, ch3, 1sc in the 1st ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch3
*3dc tog in the next st, ch3, 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch3* rep all the way around, ss into 1st 3dc tog.
14. Ch2, 1sc in the same sp, Ch3,* 1sc in the ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch3, 2sc in the top of the 2dc tog of prev round, ch3* all the way around and ss into the top of the 1st sc.
15. Ch2, 1sc in the same place, Ch3,*1 sc in the next ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the next ch sp, ch3, 1sc in the next ch sp, Ch3, 1sc in the next ch sp, Ch3 2sc in the middle of the 2sc, ch 3* repeat all the way around, ss into the 2sc.
16. Ch5 (stands for 1dc and 2ch), *1dc in the next ch sp, Ch2,* repeat all the way around, ss into the beg ch sp (30dc)
17. Ch3, 1dc in the same ch sp, ch2, *2dc in the next ch sp, ch2* rep all the way around, ss into the top of the ch3 changing back to your first color. (29 sets of dc)
18. Repeat row 17, making your 2dc above the 2dc from previous round.(29 sets of dc), ss into the top of the ch3
19. Ch1, * 3sc in the ch sp, ch4, skip the 1st ch and 1sc in each of the next 3ch, 1sc in the middle of the 2dc, * rep to the end finishing with 3sc in the next sp ch4, skip the 1st ch and 1sc in each of the next 3ch, ss in the 1st sc
20. This is the part where you joined the first blue row, If you have too many stitches just skip an extra one, this is more free form than structured
Start with a ss in the 1st dc of the 14 that you had made,* ch1, 1sc in the next 5dc (giving you 6sc) 1sc in the middle ch of the red chain above, skip 1dc and 1sc into each of the next 6dc, ch4, skip the 1st ch and 1sc in each of the next 3ch, * rep between the stars but instead of ch1 make 1sc. Ss into the 1st sc.
Aunt Lydia's cotton in a size 10, doubled and a size 2.75mm crochet hook
dc = double crochet * * rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet st = stitch
ss = slip stitch sp = space
ch = chain cnr = corner
hdc = half a double crochet
tr = treble
Picot = ch3 and ss or sc into the 1st ch
REMEMBER - the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.
Remember we are doubling our yarn
1. Ch7, ss into the first stitch
2. Ch5 (stands as 1dc, 2ch),* 1dc in the next st, ch2* rep between stars until you have 8dc including the 1st ch 5, ss into the 3rd ch
3. Ch4, *2tr in the next ch, 2 tr in the next ch (so that is 4tr in the next ch sp), ch2* repeat in between stars all the way around (32tr all together), ss into the 4th ch
4. Ch4, 2tr in the next tr, 2tr in the next tr, 1tr in the last tr, ch5, *1tr in next st, 2tr in next st, 2tr in next st, 1tr in next st, ch5* repeat to end, ss into the 4th ch
5. Ch4, 5tr tog in the next 4tr, ch5, 3tr in the middle ch of the next ch sp, ch5, *6tr tog in the next 6 tr, ch5, 3tr in the middle ch of the next ch sp, ch5* repeat between the stars to the end, ending with 3ch, 1dc into the middle of the 6tr tog
6. ch7, *1sc in the middle of the ch 5, 2dc in the 1st tr, 2dc tog in the middle tr, 2dc in the next tr, 1sc in the middle of the ch5, ch7, * rep in the stars to the end, ending with a sc in the top of the dc you made
7. ch6, 1sc in the middle of the ch7, *2tr tog in the next 2st (in the dc not in the sc), 3ch, 3tr tog (1 in the same place as the previous st, 1 in the next st and 1 in the next st), 3ch, 2tr tog in the prev stitch (the one you just worked in) and the next st, 1sc into the middle of the ch7,* rep this, ending with a ss and new color
8. Ch5 (3 for our picot), ch2, 1sc into the 1st sc you had made on previous round, *ch2, 1 picot, ch2, 1sc above the 3tr, ch2, 1sc in the next tr, * repeat in the stars to end (you are doing the sc into each of those tr from previous round) ss into the 1st stitch - 24 picots
9. Ch6, 1dc in the sc, 1 picot,* ch3, 1dc in the sc, ch3, 1picot, ch3, 1dc in the sc*, rep in the stars all the way around but instead of a dc in the sc at end ss into the 3rd ch of the beg 6 chain, 1 picot = 24 picot
10. Ch3, 1dc in the same space, 1 picot, ch3,* 1dc in the next space, 1 picot, ch3,* repeat this to the end - 24 picots, ss into the top of the 1st picot.
11. Change yarn if you are changing colors. Restart your work in the 1st ch sp,
Ch3 (stands for 1st dc) 1dc in the same sp, ch2, 2dc in the next ch sp, *2dc in the next ch sp, ch2* repeat to the end (24 sets of dc), end with ch2 and ss into the top of the ch3
12. Ch3, 1dc in the next dc, *1dc in each of the 2dc, ch2* repeat around ss into the top of the ch3
13. repeat row 12 until the length is as long as you want it. I did 4 rows
14. ch3 as a picot, 1sc or 2sc in the next ch sp, 1sc in between the 2dc, *1 picot, 1sc or 2sc in next ch sp, 1sc in between the 2dc * repeat to the end - it is better to do 2sc not 1sc go to the end and ss into the 1st st
I am using Bernat Baby Softee Yarn (size 3) with a size 3.75mm crochet hook
You can do it in a thin thread as well
This will look very nice sewn onto a blanket or a pillow
dc = double crochet * * rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet st = stitch
ss = slip stitch sp = space
ch = chain cnr = corner
hdc = half a double crochet
dtr = double treble
2dc tog = wrap yarn around hook, go into stitch, bring up a loop, go thru 2 loops, wrap yarn around hook, go into stitch, go thru 2 loops, go thru all the loops (be sure whether they are done in the same stitch or in the next 2 stitches)
Remember the Numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.
Body of Butterfly
1. Make a slip knot, ch2 and then do 4dc in the 1st ch, Ch3, turn your work around
2. 2dc in the next stitch (not the very 1st one), 1dc in next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in the chain from the previous round (very last st), ch3, turn work around
3. 1dc in each of the next 5dc, 1dc in the last ch, ch3 turn
4. 1dc in each of the next 6dc, (the last dc in the top ch), ch3, turn work around
5. same as row 4
6. same as row 4
7. 2dc tog in the next 2 stitches, 1dc in the next st, 2dc tog in the next 2 st, 1dc in the last st, ch3 turn
8. 4dc in the next 4 stitches, ch3, turn
9. same as row 8
10. 2dc in the next st, 1dc in the next st, 2dc in the next st, 1dc in the last st, 3ch, turn
11-14. 1dc in each of the next dc (6dc in all), ch4, turn
15. 2dc tog in the next 2 st, 1dc in the next st, 3 dc tog in the next 3 st, ch3 turn
16. 1dc in the same place as the ch3, 1dc in the next st, 2dc tog in the last st, ch3, turn
17. 4dc in the next 4 st,
18. ch 23, skip the 1st st and ss in the next 3, 1sc in next st, 1hdc, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc, ss in the next 11 st, turn your work, 1dc in the next st, 1dc in next, 2dc tog in the next 2 stitches,
19. ch 20, skip 1, ss in the next 3, 1sc in next, 1hdc, 1dc, 1hdc, 1sc, 11ss to the end, finish work and cut off your yarn
PART 2
BRUGES LACE WINGS
1. Ch 7, skip 3 ch and 1dc in the next ch, 1dc in the next ch, ch1, skip the next ch and 1dc in the last ch
2. Ch4, turn work around, 1dc in the very 1st dc, ch1, 1dc in the next dc, 1dc in the last dc
3. Ch4, turn work around, 1dc in the next 2 dc (go into the very 1st dc), ch1, 1dc in the last dc (not in the ch loop)
4. Repeat row 2 and 3 until you have 10 (ch4) loops on the side where you have the 2dc's (watch at the number 4 on video)
5. Finish the row with the 10th ch 4 loop, then
ch4 turn your work around, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in the next 2 dc, this will now be your 11th ch 4 loop on the 2dc side, so ch4 and turn and do 2dc in the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in the last dc,
ch4 turn your work around and 1dc in the 1st dc, ch1, 2dc in the last 2dc, This ch4 loop would have been your 12th loop
6. With your 2dc side facing each other fold your lace and ss into the opp lace's first stitch (watch video to see where if unsure) and into the last stitch, making a circle with your lace. Flip your work around and go into the 1st 2dc with 1dc in each, 1ch, 1dc in the last dc, (you should have 11 ch 4 loops on the OUTSIDE) this ch4 is your 12th loop and turn
7. 1dc in the 1st dc, ch1, 1dc in the next 2dc, NO ch4 on this side, instead we are doing a ch3 standing for our 1st dc, turn work around and 1dc in the next dc (2nd one), ch1, 1dc in the last dc, ch4, turn your work around (this being your 13th loop on the outside you have just made)
8. 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc (the 2nd one is going into the top of the previous ch3 you had made),
9. Ch2, ss into 1st open loop on left hand side's "tape", ch2, turn your work around, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc, ch4, turn your work, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in the next 2dc
10. Same as number 9
11. Same as number 9 except make a dc instead of a ss into the next loop
12. Ch4, turn, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in last dc, ch4 turn work around, 1dc in next dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc,
13. same as number 11
14. same as number 12
15. Ch2, 1dc in the next loop, ch2, turn your work, 1dc in each of the next 2 dc, ch1, 1dc, WE ARE NOW JOINING ONTO THE BODY, Ch2, join onto body with a sc, ch2, turn your work around, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc,
16. Ch2, 1dtr into the same loop as previous row, ch2, turn work, 1dc in the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in the next, ch2, 1sc into body, ch2, turn work around, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc,
17, ch4, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc, ch2, sc into the body, ch2 turn around, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch4, turn around, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, 1ch, 1dc in the next,
18. ch2, join with a sc onto the body, ch2, turn, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch4, turn, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in the next,
PART 3
19. Once you have made your 17th loop finish that row with 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch4 turn, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in the next
20. Your 18th loop is now going to be joined, so twist your tape around so that the 18th loop is still on the outside and we will be joining now onto the 2nd last loop (watch video). So Ch 2, sc into opp loop, ch2, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2, ch4, turn/flip it over, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc,
21. Ch2, sc into the next loop (look at video), ch2, 1dc, ch1, 1sc in each of the next 2 dc, ch2, turn your work around 1sc in each of the next 2sc, ch1, 1dc in the last st,
22. Ch2, join with a sc in the loop that you already joined (the double treble you made) (look at video) ch2, turn, 1dc, ch1, 1sc in the next st, 1ss in the next st, ch2, turn 1sc, 1dc, ch1, 1dc,
23. Ch2, skip the next loop and sc into the next one (joining), ch2, turn, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, 2dc in the last stitch, ch2, turn, 1dc in next st, 1dc in the next st, ch1, 1dc in the next dc, ch1, 1dc in the last dc,
24. Ch2, sc join onto next loop, ch2,turn, 1dc in next st, ch1, 1dc in the next st, ch1, 1dc in next st, 1dc in the next st, ch3, turn your work around, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in the next st, ch1, 1dc in the next st, ch1, 1dc in the last st
25. Ch3, turn your work around, 1dc in 1st stitch, 2ch, 1dc in the next dc, ch2, 1dc in the next dc, ch2, 1dc in each of the next 2dc
26. Ch3, turn, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch2, 1dc in the next dc, ch2, 1dc in the next dc, ch2, 1dc in the last dc, ch2, sc to the opp loop (2nd one), ch2, turn,
27. 1dc, ch2, 1dc, ch2, 1dc, ch2, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch3, turn, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, (1dc ch1 1dc in the same place), ch1, 1dc in the next, ch1, 1dc in the last stitch, ch2, skip 1 loop and sc into the next loop,
28. Ch2, turn, 1dc in 1st st, ch1, 1dc in the next, ch1, 1dc in next, ch1, 1dc in next, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc,
29. Ch3, turn, 1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch1, 1dc in the ch space, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in the last dc,
30. Ch3, (no joining),* 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc, ch1, 1dc in each of the next 2dc*, ch3 turn, repeat in between stars
31. Ch2, skip 1 loop and sc into next loop, ch2 turn, 1dc in 1st dc, skip 1 loop (on RHS) and sc into the next loop, 1dc in the next dc, 1dc in the next dc, 1sc in the next loop, 1dc in next dc, ch1, 1dc in the next, ch1, 1sc in the next loop, ch1, 1sc in the next dc, 1sc in next loop, finish off
Make the other wing the same way, make sure your butterfly's head is facing up and not down when you attach the next wing.
Abbreviations
– yo = yarn over, sk = skip, lps = loops, * * repeat between the asterix
Treble =
wrap yarn around hook 2 times, go into stitch and bring up a loop, go through 2
loops, go through 2 loops, go through 2 loops
TKS =Tunisian Knit Stitch= sk 1st vertical bar,
insert hook from front to back, between front and back vertical bars of same
stitch, yo, pull lp through, hold all lps on hook.
Tunisian Treble Stitch (TTRS) = yo twice, insert hook as for TKS
or as indicated, yo, pull lp through, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) twice.
Tunisian Double Stitch (TDS) = yo, insert hook as for TKS or as
indicated, yo, pull lp through, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook.
PART 1
I am using a size 6mm/J afghan hook.
I am using Artiste Crochet Cotton and it is a Number 8
REMEMBER – the numbers on the video correspond to the
numbers on the written pattern
SIZING
My wrap measures 62inch long and 12 inches wide. If you
want a bigger shrug you will need to add more stitches on and then you will
need to make yours longer as well. If
you add about an inch to the width then add about 4 inches to your length.
1. You need to
have stitches in a multitude of 15 plus 3stitches, a minimum of 33 chs)
I used 90
plus 3 stitches so I chained 93 stitches
2. Holding all lps on hook, yo twice, insert hook into
the 3rd ch from the hook, yo, pull lp through (yo, pull through 2
lps on hook) twice,
*Skip the next
4ch on the hook, (yo, insert hook in next ch, yo, pull lp through, yo, pull
through 2 lps on hook) 5 times, sk next 4 chs,
**yo twice, insert hook in next ch, yo, pull loop
through, (yo,pull through 2 lps on hook) twice, rep from ** once, rep from *
across.
2a. taking the stitches off the hook – Ch1, (yo, pull
through 2 lps on hook) twice
*(ch1, yo,
pull through 2 lps on hook) 4 times, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 3 times,
rep * across to last 7 lps on hook, (ch 1, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) 4
times, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook) twice
3. Ch2 , sk 1st
vertical bar, TTRS in next vertical bar.
*5 TDS in 3rd
st of next 5-TDS group. TTRS in each of the next 2 TRRS, rep from * across
3a. taking stitches off the hook – Ch1, (yo, pull through
2 lps on hook) twice, *(ch1, yo, pull through 2 lps on hook (4 times), (yo,
pull through 2 lps on hook) 3 times, rep from * across to last 7 lps on hook,
(ch1, yo pull through 2 lps on hook) 4 times, (yo, pull through 2 lps on hook)
twice.
REPEAT ROW 3 and 3a for pattern
4. showing you the stitch again
5. You can do as
many rows as you like in different colors. I made mine in uneven rows. My black
row was either 1 or 2 row and my pink and blue ranged from 8 – 14 rows each. So
make yours the way you want to and keep going up straight until yours measures
about 62 inches long.
Showing stitch and changing colors PART 2
6. length about 60
– 62 inches
7. BORDER AROUND
8. Once you are
finished with the length you don’t end your work but your next row will start
the border all the way around. So you will
Ch3, 1 Treble in the next stitch, *1dc in each of the
next 5 stitches, 1 treble into the next stitch, 1 treble into the next stitch,*
repeat between the stars to the end of this row (finishing with your 2 trebles)
9. Going down the first side,
Ch2, 2 dc in the 1st space, now you want to do
double crochet all the way down the side, I have no set amount, just make sure
that they are making your work lie flat and not pulling or scrunching your work
with too many of them – watch video .
10. Showing a bit of a pattern with the double crochets
11. Across the other bottom, Ch 2, 1dc in each of the
“treble stitches”, and 1tr in each of the next 5 stitches (we are doing the
opposite to the other side across)
12. Coming up the 2nd side, same as number 9
13. Showing you how to assemble your wrap
14. Starting our
Border
Make a slip knot and slip stitch into the v on both
sides, Ch3 and 1dc into each of the next spaces, all the way around
15. Ss into the 3rd chain, 1dc into each space
all the way around, ss into the 3rd ch
16. Ch6, sc into the 3rd ch (making a picot),
*1dc in your next sp with ch3 and sc into the 3rd ch (picot) in the
same stitch* repeat all the way around
dc = double crochet * * rep what is in between the stars
sc = single crochet st = stitch
ss = slip stitch sp = space
ch = chain cnr = corner
Remember that the numbers on the video correspond to the numbers on the written pattern.
The Granny Square you are using is on my YouTube and the link is in the info box.
Below is the Pattern for the square.
FLOWER GRANNY SQUARE
Caron Simply Soft
Hook 5:00mm
Size about 5 inches
Chain = ch, Stitch = st, Double Crochet = dc, Single Crochet = sc, Chain Space = ch sp, Space = sp, Slip Stitch = st, Treble = tr,
4Tr cluster = Yarn over twice, hook into stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, (yarn over and draw through 2 loops) twice, do this for 4 trebles and at end yarn over and draw through all the loops (5) on hook
1. Ch 7, ss in first ch to form a ring
2. 2ch, 11sc in ring (=12sc), ss into 2nd ch from beg 2 ch
3. Ch5, dc in next st, *Ch3, dc in next st* repeat in between stars till 12dc, ss into 3rd ch, ss into space
4. Ch 4, 3 treble clusters in same sp (do cluster this beg one the ch 4 stands as the first tr and you have 4 loops on hook), ch 5
4 tr cluster in same sp, ch 5 all around till 12 clusters, ss in top of cluster
5. Change color and ss into space, 6sc in each space
6. 3ch, 2dc, 3ch, 3dc all in same space (Corner made), *skip next st, 1dc in next, skip next, 1dc in next, till you have made 8dc, make a corner in next stitch (3dc 3ch, 3dc)* , repeat stars till 4 corners made and 8 dc take you to the end.( You have 3 spaces where you made the 6sc(row 5) where you are making the 8dc over these 3 and then you make your corner)
(In other words You are making a cnr above the first petal, then you make 8dc over 2 more petals and above the 4th petal you make another cnr, then you make another 8 dc over the next 2 petals and above the 7th petal you make another cnr, make another 8dc over another 2 petals and above the 10th petal you make another corner and then make another 8dc till you get to the beginning cnr and you ss to the beg ch3)
MAKING THE JACKET
1. Depending on what size jacket you make and how many rows of squares you make will depend on how many squares you will need. For the jacket that I made I used 110 squares.
The small is using 2 for the left front, 2 for the right front and 4 for the back, so that is a strip of 8 motifs and you can make it however long you want your jacket (I went up 6 strips)
The medium (the one shown on the video) uses 2.5 for the front left, and 2.5 for the front right and the back used 4 plus the 2 halves left from the 2 front motifs. So that makes a strip of 10 motifs and I made 6 strips of 10 for my length.
The large is using 3 for the left front and 3 for the right front and 6 for the back so that is a strip of 12 and also going up 6 or longer
You can measure your square and multiply it by however many you make in a strip so if it is a 5 inch square and you are making the smaller jacket you would say 8 squares multiplie by 5 inches and that would give you 40 inches around your body. Measure over your hips and see how it will fit, remember you want it bigger as you don't want it to fit tight like a skirt, you will want some space for it to flow
Make sure your sleeve border has the same amount of stitches as each other and do the same thing as you do for the centre front.
2. Placing your sleeves
3. Medium sleeve - showing you how to sew the triangle part on
4. Other 2 sizes triangle
5. Neck Border - start with the right side of your work facing you and ch 3, 1dc in each stitch so that your work lies flat. At the first join - you sc 3 together, 1dc in each of the next stitches, next join, you sc 2 together, 1dc in each of the next stitches, and do the same thing going back down the neck, go all the way around your jacket with dc
6. 2nd round, 1 dc in each and where you decreased you decrease again, both times only 2sc together, go all the way around jacket again
7. Sewing part of the neck
8. Do as many rows all the way around your jacket of dc, as you want, and very last row = Ch3, *3dc in next st, ss, in the next 3 stitches* repeat this all the way around, except do 4dc instead of ch3 and 3dc
