This blog is all about learning how to crochet and knit for beginners and for more advanced crocheters and knitters. This is also about oil and watercolor painting. This blog is about inspiration and creativity. Maybe some health and spiritual tips as well.
Hi there,
This is a wonderful lacy granny square which can be used for anything. I hope you enjoy making it.
LACY GRANNY SQUARE
You can use
any size crochet hook and yarn
Sc = single crochet, Dc = double crochet, Sp = space,
Tr = treble, St = stitch,
Ch = chain, * * =repeat work in between the stars, Tog = together, yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch (or sl st)
1 Make 5 ch and join into a ring
2 1Ch, 11sc into ring, sl st to first ch
3 *15ch, sl st into next sc, rep from * 11
times more; working last sl st into sl st at end of rnd 1, ending with 12 ch
loops
4. Sl st along to centre of first loop, *4ch,
1sc into next loop, 4ch, (yo, insert
hook into next loop, yarn over, draw loop through, yarn over, draw through 2
loops) 3 times, yarn over, draw through all 4 loops on hook – called cluster –
4ch, cluster into same loop, 4ch, 1sc into next loop, repeat from * 3 times
more, working last sc into slip stitch at beg of round
5. Sl st along to centre of first 4ch loop, 3ch,
cluster into this same loop, *4ch, 1sc into next loop, 4ch, (cl, 4ch, cl) into next loop, 4ch, 1sc into
next loop, 4ch, cl into next loop, rep from *3 times more, but omit last
cluster and sl st to 3rd of first 3ch.
This is a fairly easy choker to crochet. I hope you have fun making it.
CHOKER
Sc = single crochet, ss= slip stitch, dc = double crochet, sp = space,
ch = chain, rep = repeat, beg = beginning, ** repeat in between stars
Any Embroidery Cotton
Hook, size 3.5
Pattern = 6 stitches, so
multiples of 6 for your foundation ch
This choker is 13.5 inches
in length, so I have 13 x 6 stitches (pattern) which gives me 78 ch plus 1 to
turn = 79 stitches
1.Ch 79 (78 plus
1), turn
2.Sc in 2nd
ch from hook and in each ch = 78sc
For
row 3 - On the video I said to ch1 turn and then ch3 (It was supposed to be
ch1, turn and sc in 1st sc, I left out the sc , it isn’t going to make
a big difference they will both work so either way)
3.Ch1, sc in 1st
sc, *ch3 skip 2sc, 3dc in next sc (3dc in same stitch), ch3, skip 2sc, sc in
next sc* rep this till last 3dc, ch3 and sc1
in last sc
4.*5ch, sc in 1st
dc (of the 3),
Ch3,
ss in the 1st ch of the 3 (picot made) x3 (make 3 picots one after
each other)
Sc
in the 3rd dc (of the 3)*
repeat this till end and end with the sc, then ch2 and dc in the sc
below
To do this doily you
need to know the basics of making a bruges lace
tape, you can watch my videos on
bruges lace on youtube at My video on making the bruge lace tape is at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0rJNPeJxkZ8. My other bruges lace video is ashttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjpuxiJiEP4.
The pattern
goes from the beginning of the one cluster to the end of the same cluster which
is 6 rows but our row one becomes row 7 (as we don’t do the beginning of row 1,
so I changed it to row 7 to make it easier) so we repeat rows 2 to 7 till 7
clusters are made
To start we
are starting where you see the 3dc increases except you are just trying to get
your chains so the ch with the 3dc is still considered 1ch and then 2 more, so
that gives you 3ch plus the 6ch for your loop. You are going from Left to
Right.
You need to
look down on the row to do your row not up (so below the line is your row – if
this helps)
Dc 3 tog = yo, hook into specified st, pull up a loop,
yo and draw hook through 2 loops (2 loops left), yo, hook into specified st,
pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops, yo hook into specified st,
pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops and through all st
3 Treble Together = *Wrap
yarn around hook x2, insert hook into st (read pattern for either same st or
into the next st), yarn over, bring a loop thru, yarn over, thru 2 loops, thru
2, leave rest on hook*, repeat till 3 trebles done, yarn over and thru all
remaining loops.
Sc = single crochet, Dc = double crochet, Sp = space,
Tr = treble, St = stitch,
Ch = chain, * * = work all in between the stars, Tog = together, yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch
WORKING OUR TAPE
1.Ch 9, 1dc in the 7th ch
from hook, (From right to left on pattern) 1dc in the next st and 3dc in the
next st, ch 6 turn
2.(Left to right) 3dc in the next dc
(incr) and 1dc in each of the next 4dc, ch6 and turn
3.(Right to left) 1dc in each of the
next 7dc, ch 6 and turn
4.(Left to right) 1dc in each of the
next 7dc, ch3 and join your 2 loops with a sc, ch3 and turn
5.(right to left) 1dc in each of the
next 4dc and dc the last 3 tog, ch 6 and turn
6.(left to right) dc the next 3dc tog,
1dc in each of the next 2dc, ch 6 and turn
7.(right to left) 1dc in each of the
next 2dc, 3dc in the next 1dc(incr) ch6, turn
Repeat row 2 to 7 until you have 7 “clusters” finishing with row 6 but
without doing the ch6
When you join your 2 sides together to form a circle make sure that the 3
loops you had joined tog are all facing inside the circle
MIDDLE SECTION – adding middle motif to the tape
Make a magic loop and crochet 21sc in it, ss into 1st st
4ch, 2Tr tog in the following 2 st, ch4 and sc in the sc of
the tape where you sc the 3 loops together , ch 4
*3Tr tog in the next 3 st, ch 4 and sc in the sc of the tape
where you sc the 3 loops together, ch 4* repeat in between the stars,
to the end, ss into the top of the first
3Tr you made and finish
video is at http://curious.com/gillyscraftworld/how-to-knit-a-hat-with-a-butterfly
K =
Knit, P = Purl, Dec = Decrease (slip
one, knit one, pull slipped stitch over = psso), * * = repeat inside astericks
Caron Simply
Soft in black and in yellow
Size 8
(U.S.A) 5mm circular needle
We are
knitting in the round and you need to know how to do basic color knitting
Caron Simply Soft in black and in yellow
Size 8 (U.S.A) 5mm circular needle
We are knitting in the round and you need to know how to do basic color
knitting
To cast on we are casting on a multiple of 5 for the first stitch pattern
to work
A. Cast on 90 Stitches
1. *P2, K3 *, rep to end (ending with k3)
2. *P2, K3*, rep to end (ending with k3)
3. *P2, Put yarn to knit position slip a stitch purlwise, K2, pass the
slipped stitch over the 2 stitches you just knitted,* repeat this to end ending
by passing slipped stitch over.
4. *P2, K1, put your yarn over your needle (or put it in the purl position
but knit one instead of purling ) and K1 * repeat to end
These 4 rows form your pattern. I did those 4 rows (x2) for my hat
5. Knit one row and increase 6 stitches throughout the row evenly (you
divide your row evenly by 6) You should now have 96 stitches
BUTTERFLY MOTIF ON HAT
bl = black, y = yellow
REPEAT EACH ROW THREE TIMES
6. 8bl, 3y, 10bl, 3y, 8bl (this equals 32 stitches and repeated three times
gives you your 96 stitches)
I have made this Sweater/Jersey using a whole bunch of the same motif. Below is a Schematic of the whole sweater laying flat, to give you an idea of how the motifs lie together to form the sweater.
PINK MOTIF SWEATER
Red Heart
Shimmer pink 4 balls, 2 white, 2 black - depending on size
Crochet hook
3.75mm (I used a smaller hook as I wanted my motif slightly smaller an my work
to be tighter. If you want motif bigger use a bigger hook and yarn and opp for
smaller.
Sc = single crochet, Dc = double crochet, Sp = space,
Tr = treble, St = stitch,
Ch = chain, * * =repeat work in between the stars, Tog = together, yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch
3 Treble Together = *Wrap
yarn around hook x2, insert hook into st (read pattern for either same st or
into the next st), yarn over, bring a loop thru, yarn over, thru 2 loops, thru
2, leave rest on hook*, repeat till 3 trebles done, yarn over and thru all
remaining loops.
Small (large) will be
shown like this
HOW MANY
MOTIFS made all together(48 for the small and 72 for the large - according to
the chart, if you make the sleeves longer like mine and the length longer you
will use more.
PATTERN
1.Make a
magic circle with 16 dc in it, or ch4 and do 15dc in the 1st ch (the
3ch would stand as 1st dc), ss into the 1st space
2. Ch5
(which stands for 1dc, ch2), 1dc in the same space, ch2, *1dc in the next
space, ch2 * repeat in each ch sp to
end, ending with ch2, ss into 3rd ch (16dc all together)
3. Ss into
the 1st ch sp, ch 4, 2 tr tog (makes 3 tr tog) in the same sp, 4ch,
*3Tr Tog, 4 ch in the next sp* to end, ch4 and ss into the top of the 3tr tog
(16 clusters), Sc into the 1st ch sp with new color *white)
4. 4sc in
each ch sp all the way around, sc into 1st sc , with new color and
for the 1st motif only you will do a complete round in your black
without joining, after that you will be joining your motifs
5. 1st
motif only =* 6ch, sc in the stitch above the tr* all the way around (16 ch sp)
ss into 1st st
JOINING OUR
MOTIFS
We will join
a row of motifs together one underneath each other. 8(9) motifs one under each
other.
Remember you
are working with either 4 loops or 2 loops
6. To join,
you ch3, sc in opp motifs ch sp, ch3 and sc in the 1st motif, do
this with 4 loops and then finish your motif by ch6 sc in the 1st
motif THIS YOU ONLY DO FOR YOUR 1st
2 Motifs joined together
7. For the
long strip you start with you will join 8 (9) motifs.
FOR THE REST OF THE MOTIFS in the strip -
Make sure you join them in the right place Opposite the other 4 joined with 4
loops on either side.
KEEP LOOKING
AT YOUR SCHEMATIC DRAWING TO HELP SEE WHERE TO PLACE MOTIFS.
The small
sweater needs to watch everything to know what to do. I have one piece that is
just for the small but all the rest shows you how to join and do the neck
whether large or small
PART 2 – remember your front and back are
all done in one piece. You make one long strip of 8(9) motifs first and then
you start joining the others
8. Joining
the First Middle one
9. Joining
the longer bottom one
10. Joining
3 together
11. If you
look at the schematic. The large has 9 motifs joined tog lengthwise and then 10
motifs and then 5 and 5 and then 10 and 9 motifs
The Small
has 8 motifs lengthwise, 4 and 4 and 8 again UNLESS you are making yours
longer.
12. Small
only
13. Large
only
14. Joining the longest motif in middle row – you
do the 4(5) motifs on the one side, turn your work around and do the other 4(5)
on the other side leaving the space in the middle for your neck
15. Recap of
joining 3 motifs
16. A few
mistakes that can be made
17. Joining
4th row (row after the middle row – middle only has 4(5) going up
and a space and then from the other side you do the other 4(5) and this row you
have 8(10) motifs
18. A
mistake I made and how to fix it!
19. How to
do the straight row of motifs, going past the 4(5) you did for the neck
20. Very
Important part here – joining the straight row of motifs by the neck
21. Quick
look at the small and finishing the body for both sizes
Part 3
SLEEVES
1. Showing
you how to put the motifs together for the sleeves for the Small
2. Showing
you how to put the motifs together for the sleeves for the Large
3. Small and
Large how to join the motifs for sleeve. We are doing the sleeve flat and then
folding the top in half and sewing the sides together
4. Folding
Sweater in half
5. Sewing
the sides and you would sew the sleeves the same way
6. Adding on
extra motifs to the sleeve, if you need more (it is done in the round and not
flat
7. Adding
extra motifs on the bottom of your sweater
8. Quick
Tips - WHEN YOU ADD extra motifs on the
bottom of sweater REMEMBER to crochet the 2 sides (Front and Back) together
else you have to sew them together at the end
9. Neck
Border
10. Sleeve
Border
You can make
either the sleeve border or the neck border for the bottom of your sweater.
I will be showing you how to knit a lacy scarf, which has a crocheted border around it. It is very light and delicate and is soft and comfortable to wear. I hope you enjoy making it. Feel free Like me on Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/GillysCraftWorld
HOW TO KNIT A LACY
SCARF
WITH A CROCHETED BORDER
This is made
with Red Heart Boutique Unforgettable – Cappaccino – yarn size is a 4
Knitting
Needles size 5mm or size 8
K =
knit K3tog =knit 3 together P = Purl yon = yarn over needle * *= knit what is in between the stars and
repeat that till the end
Ch =
chain dc = double crochet
A. Cast on a
multiple of 6 plus 2 stitches, I casted on 30 plus 2 = 32 total
1. K1,* k3,
yon, k3tog, yon,*, rep to last stitch, k1
(this row don’t forget that yon before you knit the last stitch)
2. Purl
3. k1, *yon,
k3tog, yon, k3* rep to last stitch, k1
4. Purl
Rows 1-4 are
the pattern that you keep repeating till your scarf is as long as you want it
be.
5. All 4
rows shown on video in a quick version
6.
Undoing/unpicking a few rows without pulling off all the stitches off the
needle
CROCHETING
THE BORDER – using a 5mm hook – crochet loosely
7. Start in
any corner and ch5, *dc, ch2* in the holes, when you get to a corner do a few
extra dc, ch2 (I did about 2 in each corner) – it depends on the yarn you used
and the size hook, do it fairly loose though. Go all the way around.
8. When you
get to the ch5 you started with, do ch3 and ss into the 3rd ch.
9. Ch3, 1dc
in the ch sp, 1dc in the dc from previous row, *1dc in the ch sp,1 dc in the dc
from previous row* repeat all the way around. If your corners pull then do
extra dc’s in the corner.
In this video I will be showing you how to crochet a hat in cotton using 4 motifs and then finishing the top portion. I hope you enjoy.
The Pattern is Here:
I used red heart cotton no 3 and a size 3.5mm hook
HOW TO CROCHET WHITE
MOTIF HAT
Sc = single crochet, Dc = double crochet, Sp = space,
Tr = treble, St = stitch,
Ch = chain, * * =repeat work in between the stars, Tog = together, yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch
5 Treble Together = *Wrap
yarn around hook x2, insert hook into st (read pattern for either same st or
into the next st), yarn over, bring a loop thru, yarn over, thru 2 loops, thru
2, leave rest on hook*, repeat till 5 trebles done, yarn over and thru all remaining
loops.
This hat has 4 squared
motifs that are joined together to start with and then the top portion is
worked with 1 motif.
So we start by making one
full motif and then we join a motif to that one and then another motif and then
the 4th one is joined to the first and last motif so we have a
circle.
Motif 1 is made
completely.
Motif 2 and motif 3 are
made with 2 corners and are joined to opp motif with 3rd and 4th
corner.
Motif 4 is made with row 5
and then 1st corner is attached to motif 3 and 2nd corner
is attached to motif 3, 3rd corner to motif 1 and 4th
corner to motif 1 to form a tube.
1 complete motif
1.Make a magic
circle with 18sc in it, ss into 1st sc
2.Ch8 (1st
3ch stand for 1st dc), skip 2sc and dc in the 3rd sc,
*ch5, 1dc in the 3rd sc* (ending with 6 ch spaces) finishing with
ch5, ss into 3rd ch
3. In each
ch sp you do *1sc, 1hdc, 2dc, 3Tr, 2dc, 1hdc, 1sc* repeat this in each ch sp (
petals) and ss into 1st stitch
4.Ch1, 1ss
in 1st sc, *ch1, 1ss in next st* (so you are doing 1Slip Stitch (not
single crochet) in each stitch with a ch1 in between, ss into 1st
st.
5.Ss your
way up to the middle of the 3Tr,* ch10 and sc in the ‘dip’ (where you did sc in
previous round), ch10, sc in the middle of the 3Tr* ending with ch10 and ss
into the first set of ch10 (12 ch spaces now)
6. Ss into 1st
ch sp, Ch 4, 4Tr Tog, ch5, 5Tr Tog, ch5, 5Tr tog, in the same sp,
* Ch5, sc in next ch sp, ch 5 in next ch sp,
ch5, 5Tr tog, ch 5, 5Tr tog, ch5, 5 Tr tog* repeat to end, finishing with ch 5 and ss into the 3rd
chain of the beginning chains made (4 corners made)
( Now we
will make another motif and we will join motifs 1 and motif 2
We make
another motif and we will join motif 2 and 3
We make
another motif and we will join motif 4 to motif 3 and motif 1)
7. Start
your 2nd motif and do 2 corners, then do the first 5 Tr Tog of
corner 3, then you ch3 and sc into the 1st motifs corner, ch2, 5Tr
tog in 1st motif, ch3,
sc in opp motifs ch sp, ch2,
5Tr tog, ch3,
sc into opp motif, ch2,
sc into motif, ch3,
sc into opp motif, ch2,
sc into motif, ch3,
sc into opp motif, ch2,
5Tr tog into motif, ch3,
Sc into opp
motif, ch2
5 Tr Tog
into motif ch3
Sc in opp
motif, ch2
5Tr Tog in
motif, ch5, sc into ch sp, ch5, sc into ch sp, ch5, ss into top of 5tr cluster.
8. Do No 7
again with the 3rd motif – in the video I had already done it
JOINING THE
4 MOTIFS TOGETHER TO FORM A CIRCLE – motif 4
to motif 3 and motif 1
9. Make sure
your wrong sides are together and you are working on the right side
You will
join this 4th motif onto both motifs (3 and 1) so all 4 corners will
be joined together.
Make sure
you have 12 ch spaces on the 4th motif. You will not complete the first 2 corners on
this motif. You will complete row 5 and then, ss into the ch sp, (making first
corner and joining to opp motif) make the 1st 5 tr tog and join to
opp motif as we did before to make a corner, join your 2 ch sp like we did
before and join your next corner, join another 2 ch spaces and join your next corner
onto the very first motif to make a circle. Make sure your wrong sides are
together and you are working on the right side, join your 2 ch spaces, join
last corner, and then finish your last 2 ch sp with a ch5 sc, ch5 sc, ss into
top of 5 tr tog
PART 2 OF
VIDEO
Top Part of
Hat
1. Start at
the top or bottom of the tube and ss into any one of the ch spaces
2. Ch 5, sc
in the next ch sp, do this all the way around so you have 24 ch spaces
3. Sc into 1st
ch sp, *5 Tr Tog ( in the beginning you always do this - Ch 4 (1st tr), 5ch*, to the end (end
with ch 5) and you have 24 5 tr clusters
4. ss into
top of 1st tr you made, 3sc in each of the ch spaces all the way
around
5. Ss into
the 1st sc, *ch 5, skip one tr cluster and sc into the next sc above
the cluster*, all the way around and you should have 12 ch spaces now, end with
ch5
6. ss into
the first stitch, sc in the first ch sp. Don’t end yarn just stop and start the
motif with new yarn - make the flower from the motif – row 1- 5 but in row 5
instead of ch10 you are only going to do ch 6.
7. Go back
to your hat and start where you left off Ch 2, sc in the motif, ch2, sc in hat’s next
ch sp,* ch 2, sc in motif’s next ch sp, ch 2, sc in hat’s next ch sp* rep this
till flower is attached. You have 12 ch spaces on the motif and 12 ch spaces on
your hat so there is one for each.
8. You
should finish by going into the motif and then ch2 and go into the hat where
you started your first ch 2, sc and end off.
9. Turn hat
so you are working on the brim part. Join in any ch sp with a sc. 5 sc in each
one of the ch spaces. If you need your hat a touch larger you can do 6 or 7 sc
in each space.
10. Ss into
your first sc, ch1, skip 1sc and sc in the next, 1 sc in the sc you missed
(going backwards), *skip the next sc (forward) and sc in the next , sc in the
one you missed (backwards)*
11. At the
end if yours works out where you can skip one sc and sc into the one you missed
then just sc in the next forward one and finish off with a ss. If you didn’t
end with one left to skip just do another sc and ss into next stitch and finish
off.
Hi there,
Here is a bracelet that I crocheted and decided to share with you.
BRACELET
Embroidery Cotton/Floss any colors you like. You will need 2 of each color to be safe.
Crochet hook 3.5mm
Sc = single crochet, Dc = double crochet, Sp = space, Tr = treble, St = stitch,
Ch = chain, * * = work all in between the stars, Tog = together, yo -- yarn over
1. Ch10
2. 3dc in the 7th ch from the hook, 3ch and 3dc in the same place, 1Tr in the last ch, ch4 and turn
3. In the 3ch space you do, 3dc, 3ch, 3dc (all in that same sp), 1Tr in the ch next to the 3dc (the last st of your row), ch4 and turn
4. Do row 3 until you have the length that you desire.
5. Where you finished your row, Change color and do 3ch (Standing as 1st dc) do 7dc in 1st space, ss into next ch space, *8dc in next space and ss in the next sp* keep doing this till the end. If not ending exactly see on video.
Chain = ch, Stitch = st, Double Crochet = dc, Single Crochet = sc, Chain Space = ch sp, Space = sp, Slip Stitch = st, Treble = tr, 4Tr cluster = Yarn over twice, hook into stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, (yarn over and draw through 2 loops) twice, do this for 4 trebles and at end yarn over and draw through all the loops (5) on hook
1. Ch 7, ss in first ch to form a ring
2. 2ch, 11sc in ring (=12sc), ss into 2nd ch from beg 2 ch
3. Ch5, dc in next st, *Ch3, dc in next st* repeat in between stars till 12dc, ss into 3rd ch, ss into space
4. Ch 4, 3 treble clusters in same sp (do cluster this beg one the ch 4 stands as the first tr and you have 4 loops on hook), ch 5 4 tr cluster in same sp, ch 5 all around till 12 clusters, ss in top of cluster
5. Change color and ss into space, 6sc in each space
6. 3ch, 2dc, 3ch, 3dc all in same space (Corner made), *skip next st, 1dc in next, skip next, 1dc in next, till you have made 8dc, make a corner in next stitch (3dc 3ch, 3dc)* , repeat stars till 4 corners made and 8 dc take you to the end.( You have 3 spaces where you made the 6sc(row 5) where you are making the 8dc over these 3 and then you make your corner) (In other words You are making a cnr above the first petal, then you make 8dc over 2 more petals and above the 4th petal you make another cnr, then you make another 8 dc over the next 2 petals and above the 7th petal you make another cnr, make another 8dc over another 2 petals and above the 10th petal you make another corner and then make another 8dc till you get to the beginning cnr and you ss to the beg ch3)
Hi there everyone
I hope you are all doing well.
Here is the pattern to the bag. I hope you enjoy making it.
THE VIDEO IS AT http://curious.com/gillyscraftworld/how-to-crochet-a-square-granny-bag
HOW TO CROCHET A GRANNY
SQUARE BAG
HOW TO CROCHET A GRANNY
SQUARE BAG
Sc = single crochet, Dc = double crochet, Sp = space,
Tr = treble, St = stitch,
Ch = chain, * * =rep work all in between the stars, Tog = together, yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch
I used sugar and cream
cotton (4 ply) they say to use a 6mm hook but I wanted mine to be a bit tighter
together and not very lacy so I used a size 5 mm hook.
You can use any size yarn
or hook, however you are wanting to make yours.
Beg Cnr = ch3, 2dc in same
sp, ch2, 3dc in same sp
Corner = 3dc, ch2, 3 dc
all in same sp
Not a corner = ch1, 3dc in
same space
ch4, ss into first st (white)
1. Ch3
(stands as 1st dc) 2dc into ring, ch2, 3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch2, 3dc in
ring (you should have 4 sets of 3dc in the ring now), finish with ch2, ss into
3rd ch of beg ch3, change to new color. You can start in any corner.
(white)
2. Ss in any cnr with new color and ch3 (stands
for 1st dc throughout), 2dc in same sp, ch2, 3dc in same sp =
CORNER, you do this throughout pattern for all your corners, but when you don’t
start with 3ch you do 1dc. Repeat this
for your 4 corners. This round is only corners! Ss into 3rd ch of 1st
ch 3 made. (red)
3. Start
with a ss in new color in any cnr. Ch3, 2dc in same sp, ch2, 3dc in same sp
(Beg corner), ch1,* 3dc in next ch sp, ch1*, (this is for all the ch spaces
that are not corners, Continue doing a corner and the 3dc in next ch sp, to end
of round. (white)
4. Change
color, Beg Cnr, Not a Corner (see abbreviations), not a corner, Corner, keep
doing this till end of round. (red)
5. Keep doing a round in the granny square pattern
(red)
6. Keep
doing a round (white)
7. Keep
doing a round (white) This was my last round
8. Ch3, 1Tr,
1 dc in same sp, sc in the middle of the 3dc, *1dc, 1Tr, 1dc in the next ch sp,
1sc in the middle of the 3dc* repeat to end of the row
You can make
yours bigger if you like.
Make another
square like this one. I reversed my colors!
MAKING THE
BAND
Ch8, skip 1st
3 and dc into the 4th ch from the hook,1 dc into each of the next
4ch to give you 6dc, ch2 and turn
*1dc in
first dc, 1dc in each of the next 5dc, ch2 and turn* repeat until your strap is
as long as you want it to be
Sew strap on
from the bottom of the bag and on the wrong side (right sides facing each
other)
To decorate
the strap:
Right side
of strap, where sewing stops join white yarn with a ss. 3ch (stands for your
*1dc), 1tr, 1dc in same sp, 1sc in the next st*, repeat to end of strap
Try and
spread it out evenly – basically you will be going into each of the dc’s which
are lying horizontally
I hope you are doing well and enjoying crocheting. This is the pattern to do the one heart.
FILET CROCHET – HEART
PATTERN
Sc = single crochet, Dc = double crochet, Sp = space,
Tr = treble, St = stitch,
Ch = chain, * * = work all in between the stars, Tog = together, yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch
11 squares
in pattern x 3 = 33 chain plus 1(for the end stitch) 3 for the turning chain and 2 for 2 chain in
between which gives you a multiple of 39 chain.
An open square is:
1dc in the next dc, ch2, 1dc in the next dc – that gives you an open
square
A closed square is: use the dc you made previously as
the 1st st, then 2dc in the 2 ch space and 1dc in the next dc, that
gives you a closed sp
So make a
foundation chain of 39
Row 1: Dc
into the 8th ch, *ch2, skip
2, 1dc in the 3rd ch* rep till you have 11 squares, ch5 turn around
Row 2: 5
open squares, 4 closed, 2 open squares (for last dc, dc into the 3rd
ch, ch5 and turn
Hi there,
This video is very good for beginners as it only has a bit of decreasing and if you don't want to change colors you don't have to. I hope you enjoy making this. Here is the pattern!
1.Cast on 96 stitches, make sure all
your stitches are facing the the right way, before you start knitting your
first row. Remember to do your jogless join for all your color changes!
Knit red for 5 or 6 rows whichever you prefer or more and keep changing
your colors until your hat is the length you like or it measures about 6 inches.
You want to do a jogless join because when you change colors you can see
where you changed the colors there is like a jog between colors and we want to
prevent that.
So to do the jogless join you knit one row in your new color and then on
the next row you lift the “right v” of the stitch below up and stretch it onto
the needle, and knit the 2 stitches together.
Now we need to decrease.
Once your work measures 6 inches from the bottom to where you are you can
now start decreasing. I am on color 6 when I start decreasing about 30 -32 rows
have been knit
Decrease by: decrease by slipping the next st onto the needle, knit the
next st and then
pull the slipped st over the knitted one
Row 1:* K14, k2tog*, all the way around, make sure you decreased 6 times,
ending with k2tog and 90 stitches are left
Row 2: Knit
Row 3:* k7, decrease by slipping the next st onto the needle, knit the
next st and then pull the slipped st over the knitted one, so* k7, decrease 1
st,* keep doing that till the end and you have 80 st
Row 4: knit
Row 5: *k6, decrease 1* like previous row, repeat to end – 70st left
Row 6: knit
Row 7: *k5, decr 1*, to end – 60 stitches
Row8: knit
Row 9:* k4, dec 1*, to end – 50 stitches
Row 10: knit
Row 11: knit (still 50 stitches)
Row 12: knit
Row 13: knit
Row 14: knit
Row 15: knit
Row 16: knit, cut your yarn (make it fairly long), to finish off
Row 17: push all your stitches to the left needle and take a yarning
needle and working with 2 stitches at a time, pull the stitch behind, over the
1st one and thread the stitch onto the yarn, repeat to end. Take yarn through hole and sew it away.
Hi there,
This is a bag I made and wanted to share with you. It is a fun over the shoulder bag. I hope you enjoy making it! Bye for now
How to Crochet a Bag
Sc = single crochet, Dc = double crochet, Sp = space,
Tr = treble, St = stitch,
Ch = chain, * * = work all in between the stars, Tog = together, yo – yarn over, ss = slip stitch
Dc Cluster = yo, hook into st, pull up a loop, yo and draw
hook through 2 loops on hook (2 loops left on hook), yo hook into st required
to go into, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops on hook and then
through all 3 loops left on hook
Dc 2 tog = yo, hook into
specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops (2 loops left),
yo, hook into specified st, pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops
and then through all the rest.
Dc 3 tog = yo, hook into specified st, pull up a loop,
yo and draw hook through 2 loops (2 loops left), yo, hook into specified st,
pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops, yo hook into specified st,
pull up a loop, yo and draw hook through 2 loops and through all st
Treble = yo hook 2 times,
hook in to st, pull up a loop, draw hook through 2 loops, through 2 loops
Tr 2 tog =yarn around hook
2 times, hook into specified st, pull up a loop, draw hook through 2 loops,
draw hook through 2 loops, yarn around hook 2 times, hook into specified st,
pull up a loop, draw hook through 2 loops, draw hook through 2 loops, and
through all the loops
Sc 2 Tog = hook into st
bring up a loop, hook into next st, bring up a loop and then go thru all your
stitches
I am using
Red Heart Super Saver yarn and a 5.5mm crochet hook
And you need
a long piece of ribbon (as long as you need your strap/band to be over your
shoulder) it can be as wide as you want your band to be and when you crochet
your band to go around it make sure your crocheted band is wider than your ribbon, double the size
Ch 6, ss
into 1st ch
1.Ch3 (which stands as your 1st
dc), 11 dc in ring = 12dc. Ss into 3rd
ch
2.Ch3 to stand as your 1st
dc. Work 1dc in the same space as the
ch3. Work 2dc in each dc so you have
24dc all together including the ch3
3.Ch3, 1dc in the same place, *1 dc in
next dc, 2dc in next dc* rep to end, you should have 36dc, ss in 3rd
ch
4.*Ch9, sc in the 3rd and 4th
ch from the hook, dc in each of the next 5ch.
Sc in the same stitch as you started the ch9. Sc in the next 6*, Repeat what
is in between the stars
5.*Sc in 1st ch, 2dc in each of the next 4st, sc in each of
next 2st, sc, ch1, sc all in the tip, sc in the next 2 st, 2dc in each of the
next 4 dc, sc in the next st, skip the next sc, 1sc in each of the next 5sc,
skip the next sc* rep to end and skip your last st and sc in next one and end
of yarn.
PART 2 OF BAG
6. Start in any one of the tips and* sc in the
middle of the ch3 with new color, ch 2, sc in the same stitch,
1 dc in each of the next 6 st,
2dc in EACH of the next 3
st,
sc in each of the the next 2 st,
skip 1, 1sc in each of the next 4,
skip 1, 1sc in each of the next 2,
2dc in EACH of the next 3,
1dc in each of the next 6st up to the tip* and
repeat all of this starting with sc in the tip
7.*Sc in the tip,ch2, sc in the tip,
1Dc in each of the next 12 st,
Dc 3 tog with the next 3 st, and Dc3tog with the next 3 st, Dc3 tog with
the next 3 st,
1dc in each of the next 12st, going up to the tip*, rep this
8.*sc into tip( with new color),ch2, sc
all in tip
1dc in each of the next 5
st,
1Tr in each of the next 5
st,
1dc in the next st, skip
the next st and 1sc in next st
Dc2 tog, 1sc in next st,
skip 1, 1dc in next st,
1Tr in each of the next 5
st,
1dc in each of the next 5
st*
9.*Sc ,ch2, sc all in the tip
1dc in each of the next
10st,
Dc 2 tog in the next 2
st, Dc 2 tog in the next 2 st, Dc 2 tog in the next 2 st
1 dc in each of the next
10st going up to the tip* repeat to end
10.*Sc,
ch2 sc all in the tip,
1sc in each of the next
7st,
1dc in each of the next
2st
Sc 2 tog in the next 2 st,
Sc 2 tog in the next 2 st, and Sc 2 tog in the next 2 st,
1dc in each of the next 2
st,
1sc in each of the next
7st,
Sc, ch2, sc all in the tip* repeat to end
11.*Sc, ch2, sc all in the tip,
1ss in each of the next 5 st,
1sc in each of the next 4 st
1 Tr in each of the next 4 st
1sc in each of the next 4 st* rep
to end and finish with a ss in the
very first sc you made in the tip
Now you need to make another one exactly the same, maybe change your colors
or however you want to!
When you have both your parts you can sew them together leaving one part
open (one tip to one tip)
MAKING THE BAND
1.Ch13,(or chain more depending on how
wide you want your strap to be and you can follow my directions just add on how
ever many more you added on – eg if you ch 15 you would still go into the 4th
ch on the hook but you would add 2 to your 9 stitches and would do 11 dc
instead of 9 giving you a total of 12dc instead of 10) 1dc in the 4th
ch from the hook
1dc in each of the next
9ch = a total of 10dc including the first 3ch you skipped in the beg (when you
went into the 4th ch from hook), ch3, turn
2.1dc in each of the next 9 st (going
into the first st and counting ch3 as one = 10dc)
Keep crocheting your
strap as long as you want it to be.
Sew your ribbon in the
middle of your strap and pull the two sides over into the middle and sew them
together.
Sew the strap onto your bag where the
opening is and whoala there you have your bag!
